Binion’s Ranch Steakhouse Restaurant

  • Binion’s-Ranch-Steakhouse-Restaurant

Binion’s-Ranch-Steakhouse-Restaurant

In a city like Las Vegas, there are very few absolutes. Always split aces and eights. Never bet more than you can afford to lose. Never wise-off to the bouncer. For people seeking the “Old Vegas,” there is one more absolute: eat at least one over-the-top dinner at Binion’s Ranch Steak House Restaurant Las Vegas. Binion’s is a throwback to the Rat Pack era. The decor is burgundy velvet, of course.

Binion’s — Value, excess and history with a view

The view from the 24th floor is fabulous. The portions aren’t just large, they’re gigantic: a statement in excess. The prime rib alone is the size of a Caddy’s tailfin. With service that personifies Western Hospitality, and a loyal staff that has been around for decades, Binion’s is a sure thing.They simply don’t make ‘em like Binion’s Ranch Steakhouse anymore. Except for the smoking ban, this is a restaurant that keeps the beat of swingin’ Las Vegas. The portions here aren’t just big, they’re too big. Low fat? Not a chance. Nouveaux? No way. This is an outpost of the real deal that has managed to thrive despite the corporate takeover of the strip.

An evening at Binion’s isn’t just a meal, it’s an experience. Diners enter the restaurant via elevator after walking past the always-busy poker tables on Fremont Street. If you want to include the Fremont Street Experience in your evening, see it first before dining at the Ranch. You will be too stuffed to enjoy the light show afterward.

After a trip up to the top in a glass elevator, the doors open to reveal a burgundy dining room. The decor is dominated by velvet. The seats are big and comfortable. The tables are spaced farther apart than most restaurants on the strip. There is no music playing. Who needs it? Conversations are low and the lights are dim. Best of all, every table is a great table. Every seat has a fabulous view of the city lights.

Nina and I spend the better part of an hour talking with the Maitre’D, David Schandorff. Schandorff has worked at Binion’s for 38 years. To put that in perspective, Richard Nixon had just been elected when Schandorff started. And Schandorff isn’t an exception. Our waiter, Bill Cornell, has worked there for more than 20 years. The grill chef, Larry, has made the gigantic steaks for more than a decade.

Many people make the Ranch a tradition on their annual or semi-annual trips to Las Vegas. They can count on seeing the same people time after time. They can also usually count on being recognized when they call to make a reservation. Schandorff is good with names.

Service isn’t merely friendly, it’s genuine. Benny Binion no longer runs the show, but his philosophy of “good food, good whiskey, good gamble” is alive and well. That philosophy keeps everyone coming back—locals, visitors, and celebrities. Everyone who was anyone has dined here, going all the way back to Betty Grable.

After settling in, Nina and I look over the menu—with one exception, it’s all the classics. Schandorff warns us that nobody leaves the Ranch Steakhouse hungry. Nobody.

We start out with an order of Oysters Rockefeller and a Chicken-Fried Lobster.

Chicken-Fried Lobster?

Yes, as made famous on Food Network’s “Hungry Detective,” Binion’s serves a chicken-fried lobster.

Place Categories: Restaurants.

 

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